I wasn’t going to get involved in this sew-along. Ginger Makes, along with Mel at The Curious Kiwi and Kat at Modern Vintage Cupcakes decided that the Papercut Rigel Bomber was something they needed to make and did anyone want to make it along with them? and so RigelBomberJanuary was born.
I figured I am currently mid-rehearsal (again) and don’t need anything extra in my life at the moment. I didn’t have anything in my stash that seemed right for this and I didn’t have the pattern, so I couldn’t make it anyway. Then Mel posted some inspiration photos. And I saw this one on the left and I was hooked. I tried to ignore the call of this siren but a week later it was still sitting in my head, a fabric sale started and I just had to give in.
Sequin fabric is expensive! Especially considering you also need to underline it. I headed to the Fabric Store sale and hummed and haaaed over what one to get. I ended up with this one (which is more black than it looks in this photo) for only $29 a metre (less 40% because of the sale!). It had the look I liked the best, but I don’t think its going to be the most robust sequined fabric I could get to be honest. I don’t know if the others would be less likely to shed sequins, but its something to learn if I ever sew with sequins again.
I got some black acetate to underline, which had a nice solid hand to it. I traced and cut out a size Large for this jacket (which is the size I made for my other Papercut pattern), which given I had main fabric, and underlining, and interfacing and rib took its time. Then I needed to baste the sequins to the underlining. I just used the acetate for the facing of the jacket, and decided not to line the jacket given there were already double layers of fabric (though Kat has done a great tutorial on adding lining here).
You can just see the hand basting at the end of these sleeve pieces….
Previously whenever I’ve underlined anything I’ve machine basted the pieces together, but this time as I wanted to make sure all the pieces were flat and there wasn’t any bunching (which is what I’ve had before) I hand basted it with the pieces sitting against my cutting table. It took time but I was much happier with being able to manipulate the fabric as I went so I think I’ll keep hand basting up. I’m yet to work out the best time to take out these basting stitches before they get caught up in the garment construction – any ideas on this? At what stage to you folks take basting stitches out? I also learned that you should use a new piece of cotton for each line of the pattern then you can take all the other basting stitches out and still leave the hems etc basted.
The construction of this jacket is really easy, though the first thing you do it welt pockets (first time for me!). Weirdly enough cutting into the middle of the jacket front to make the pocket itself filled me with terror, which I don’t think it would have if it was later in the sewing process – I know, makes no sense, but there you have it. But that was the only thing I struggled with. Though I did do a lot of top stitching to get everything looking right.
I finished the seams and the facing with pre-made bias binding. Because a) you have to do something to hide those ugly seams if you don’t put lining in right? And b) you have to cover the sequins on the seams cause they’re all scratchy. Trust me.
In the end this is a locally made jacket. The fabric comes from one of our local (well Kiwi owned) stores The Fabric Store, the pattern is from Nelson, only a boat ride away and the metal zip (which I love) came from my local haberdashery Made On Marion. I don’t always manage to make it all from small, local companies but I try.
I’m really happy with this jacket – I like the way the ribbing and the style makes it more casual, and therefore more wearable. It’s actually too big – I think I could have gone down a size? And if so, that’s the first time I’ve ever had that problem! Also the sleeves are a smidge short… which, if I’d searched the interweb before cutting I would have known in advance (do your research kids). Its yet to have it first wear other than getting photos taken, but I’m sure it won’t be long. Who of you have made a Rigel – I have a suspicion there are more in my future? What else have you been sewing?
P.S… my denim bed thingee is still being used. Now I’m back up on my feet it was relegated back to its home on the spare bed. Normally that room isn’t used, but Sewing Cat George came off worse for wear after meeting a car last week. The poor thing has a broken pelvis 😦 He will be a-ok but is banished to a cage for 4 weeks. As the spare room is the coolest room in the house (and its currently summer) we’ve moved him down there, and Mr C and I have set the room up as an alternate front room for the next few weeks to keep him company. Which means the spare bed, and the denim bed thingee are doubling as a couch.
While Sewing Cat George may LOOK miserable in his cage, he seems to be having the time of his life having discovered he can reach both his food bowls without leaving his bed! So far he’s been a pretty cool customer with the whole thing… so far…
Meanwhile Sewing Cat Samantha is ignoring him – looks like sewing cat duties are all her for the next month…